Posts Tagged ‘anti-aging’

GM Collin’s Newest Addition

Being that GM Collin is so well-known for their innovations in anti-aging skincare, it’s no surprise that they’ve come out with a brand new technology and a brand new product! It’s called GF Advanced Repair Serum and is made for use on mature skin with obvious signs of cellular damage (lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity etc.).

Two Types of Skin Aging
Skin aging can be classified as being biological (genetically determined by our biological clock) or environmental (determined by extrinsic factors such as UV damage). According to GM Collin, the breakthrough in epigenetic and gene science combined with growth factor technology allow a direct ‘time reverse’ action on both genetic and extrinsic factors to help delay the visible signs of aging.

What does all of this mean?
Growth factors are naturally occurring substances (that are depleted as we age) which can stimulate cellular growth, regulate cellular processes, repair damaged cells, rejuvenate aging tissues, and help to maintain optimum functions of the skin – all of which are vital for maintaining a youthful appearance. The GF Advanced Repair Serum contians 4 different growth factors.

Clock Genes
Clock genes are responsible for regulating the cycle in which the cells turn on and off their repair function. This function coordinates with UV exposure to repair at night and protect during the day. Over time these genes become de-synchronized dramatically increasing the skin’s aging process (repair capacity drops by 50% by the age of 50!). GF Advanced Repair Serum uses a peptide called ‘tetrapeptide 26′ to re-synchronize the internal clock of skin cells. This will greatly boost the skin’s natural repair process and defense mechanisms.

Last but not Least
GM Collin has one more trick up its sleeve: a peptide and protein complex. This complex provides an integral treatment to improve the overall collagen quality in our skin. To make a long story short, GF Advanced Repair Serum is formulated to boost the skin’s natural repair and protection processes which will prevent and delay the visible signs of aging.

Results
In GM Collin’s 35 day clinical trial users reported up to a 94% reduction in forehead wrinkles and a 69% reduction in nasolabial fold lines. In 14 days pore size was reduced by up to 35% and skin firmness was increased by up to 61%.

GF Advanced Repair Serum is applied 1-2 times per day on cleansed face, neck, and decolette. A small amount is all you need and this light fluid absorbs into the skin very quickly. Remember that this is not a moisturizer so you will want to apply your moisturizer right after your serum.

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Do Age-Defying Creams and Lotions really work?

Anti-aging is big business in cosmetics.

Most people learn their skin care and information from commercials on the tv and ads in the magazines. As a result most are skeptical about the claims they see.

Rightly so!

The ads are clearly edited and photoshoped and it’s highly unlikely Beyonce actually uses boxed hair dye. So thus far the visuals are all lies.

What about the claims?

They dazzle you with quick, fancy graphs and percentages that show cells plumping and wrinkles drastically reduced. However the fine print that appears for .3 second will clearly state “Results not typical” or “tested on 16 women”.  For the most part what they are showing is that your skin is more moisturized when you, you guessed it, use a moisturizer.

So what results can you expect from an anti-aging moisturizer?

1-Have realistic expectations: No cream will stop wrinkles or get rid of them. No matter what they claim. They can only ever reduce the look and help to slow down the appearance of new ones.

2-They only work if you use them. I often get asked how frequently the product needs to be used.  Skin is constantly assaulted by UV, pollution and the natural aging process. Usage of any product needs to be consistent if you want to protect it. the other issue is that repairative products need at least a full skin cell cycle to really make a change. Otherwise you’re asking dead skin cells to act younger. 6-8 weeks of consistent use gives the active ingredients time to nourish the new cells and improve them as they grow. There are no results over night.

3-What are they really doing? Mostly hydrating. This plumps the cells and reduces wrinkle depth. Certain ingredients are thought to increase collagen production over time. Some will also exfoliate which will further reduce the depth and will also brighten and even the tone.

They should also protect. Prevention is much easier than repair. SPF and occlusive barriers will protect against excessive damage and will hold in all that lovely moisture and nourishing ingredients.

4-Will a moisturizer be enough? You will see some improvement with simply using a well-formulated moisturizer. Whether you invest in other products is entirely up to your comfort level and the results you are seeing.

• A gentle cleanser and toner will be fine. Anything too aggressive will irritate the skin. Dry and sensitized skin will always look older.
• Exfoliating. This is just about as important at moisturizing. Removing the dead skin cells improves skin function, evens and brightens tone and ensure better product absorption. Retin-A and AHA products give the deepest and most even exfoliation are known to increase collagen over time as well.
• Serum: These deposit highly active ingredients deeply into the skin. They work best when used as short term treatments and are a great way to boost a focused routine, or address a separate skin issue.
• Eye Creams: These are best as prevention as well. There are many genetic factors to how our eyes age and many are very difficult to reverse once they  occurred.
• Sunscreen: This is the single greatest step you can take to keep your skin looking it’s best. Sun damage is responsible for almost all of the aging (other than the natural process) that happens to the skin. Plus it takes at least a decade. Protection from the sun now will benefit your skin later on.

Some ingredients to look for:

There are really a fairly limited number of ingredients that actually work at making the skin appear healthier and younger. This is not a comprehensive list but it will give you a basic idea of some of the most available things to look for:

• Vitamins A, C, E- All three have anti-oxidant properties, however it’s never actually been proven that these can protect against some aspects of aging. The research is ongoing and looks promising.  It certainly sounds fancy and that’s why so many cosmetics companies stress their important. They are thought to help slow free radical damage.
• AHA/Glycolic/Lactic/Salicylic Acid: Deeply exfoliating, these even and smooth out the skin and encourage collagen production which will improve tone. Salicylic is great for those that want anti-aging and have oilier skin.
• Retin-A: Still by far the most effective at home ingredient. It’s very aggressive and can cause some sensitivity
• Glycosaminoglycans: Complex proteins that are essential for healthy skin function. They include Hyaluronic Acid, Muccopolysaccharides and Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF)
• Ceramides: naturally occuring fats in the skin, they help create a barrier to prevent moisture loss.
• Peptides: if formulated correctly (stable, accompanied by a carrier and actually able to make it through the skin without breaking down) they have tissue-healing benefits.

Different lines sometimes have their own patented technology as well.

Conclusion:

Cosmetics are not a replacement for medical treatment or surgery, they will not get rid of or stop your wrinkles. The best they can do is make your skin look as healthy and balanced as possible. You can easily reduce the look of lines and help to slow down future damage. Soft, bright, even skin tone can go very far and make skin look beautiful.

Have you found any products or ingredients to be more effective than others?

How People Will Know Your True Age: Neck and Hands

We spend a lot of time focusing on the importance of proper skin care, but for most people they don’t think below the chin.

The problem is that your neck, chest and hands all get exposure to sun damage and environmental stresses as well.

Is there nothing we can do!?!?!?

Of course there is. It creates an opportunity for more products now doesn’t it?

Removing all cynicism, there is validity in either using the right products, or changing how you use your current products.

While this may not be a big deal right now, I assure you it will be a big deal when you start noticing the delightfully named “Turkey Neck” I often get questions about.

I’m not going to address the products for this as they can speak for themselves. This is more about the other, simpler steps you can take.

Make sure to extend all of your regular skin care downwards. Exfoliation and moisturizers at the very least should all be used on the neck and upper chest. This will create that cell turn over and support the skin structures that keep skin firm and young looking. Serums are up to you. They often come in smaller containers so you will go through them much quicker.

Sunscreen. So much sunscreen. Whenever you’re going to be out, make sure to slather it on, including the backs of your hands.

These will help to hydrate and protect the skin.

You can most definitely get specific products as well. Either way, this is an area that should not be ignored.

Have you found a throat/neck cream that’s made a difference for you?

B Kamins: Solutions for Rosacea, Sensitive, Acneic and Menopausal Skin

Created by a Canadian Chemist, this is a phenomenal line for people with reactive skin. Whether it be rosacea, acne, menopausal or sensitive, all the products have been formulated to actively soothe and strengthen the skin. In true Canadian form, this line focuses on the extract of the mighty maple tree with their patented Bio-Maple Compound.

There are a couple of star players  and some unique products available through this line.

People who suffer from rosacea know that it can be very difficult to find a line that will work with the skin. The “booster blue” formula neutralizes and is anti-inflammatory, exactly what that skin type needs.  It can seem like quite the undertaking to buy all the products; but they have starter kits with mini sizes in them to try out the line before investing more money. Well played B Kamins…well played.

The acne line focus on exactly what it should, deep cleansing and oil control. They mysteriously only have one exfoliant in the line and it may not feel “aggressive” enough for those with oily skin but it is effective. One of my favorite products in the line is the relatively new Clear Control Mattifier. It goes on as a balm (Fear not oily skin sufferers! Trust the product!) and dries with a powdery finish. It has a low percentage of salycylic acid that will work to dissolve oil through out the day. It also makes an absolutely fantastic make up base.

Another staff favorite is the Cellular Renewal Serum. It glides onto the skin, deeply hydrates and brings a wonderful glow to the face. A great tip is to mix this with the Diatomamus Earth Mask, it will keep the mask from drying completely out and you’ll get a boosted effect from both products.

On the anti-aging front  B Kamins provides us with one of the more pricey moisturizers we sell, but the results and reviews are stellar. The Diamond Radiance Cellular Matrix Fortifier is uniquely formulated to even out skin tone and has  powerful firming and hydrating technologies. Also…diamonds! Fun!

B Kamins is a line that Spa Boutique is extremely proud to be carrying and exists in every single one of our medicine cabinets. If you have any questions, comments or even tips about the line, we would love to hear from you! www.spaboutique.ca

The Benefits of Alpha Hydroxy Acids

AHA’s are probably one of the most versatile and multi-purpose ingredients when it comes to skin care. They can be useful to both oily/acneic skin types and the “mature” skin group. This is a rare combination!

AHA‘s increase exfoliation by loosening the “glue” that holds skin cells together. In doing so dead skin cells are removed,  oil is controlled, the look of fine lines is reduced, skin coloring is improved and the tone is evened out. All glowy and smooth.

Sounds win/win to me. So why are some more effective or popular than others? Are there side effects? Why do they work?

Why the other AHA’s are jealous of Glycolic.

You know when you see a ridiculously beautiful person and wonder why they won the genetic lottery? Well, Glycolic Acid is the pretty, intelligent, talented sister of the AHA’s. It has a smaller molecular structure and goes further into the skin. Because it penetrates so well, the exfoliation is more complete. For more on Glycolic Acid, please see the blog post.

Overview of the overlooked AHA’s.

Lactic: We’ve all heard the “Cleopatra bathing in milk” story. There is a reason. Lactic acid usually comes from soured dairy products and is gentler than Glycolic. With the larger molecules they don’t absorb as deep, therefore cause less irritation, it’s wonderful for more sensitive skins. Exfoliating, softening, moisturizing and humectant-y (holds water in the uppers layers of the epidermis=firm and plump!) lactic is definitely not to be ignored.

Malic: The sour acid. Found in unripe fruit, tart foods and especially apples, Malic is a gentle exfoliant that is smoothing. It does have anti-oxidant properties, but those are mostly from ingesting the foods it’s found in. Like sour keys. Kidding. There’s no research to indicate that it’s topically beneficial in slowing the aging process, but it does provide a little more exfoliation when included in products. It’s molecules are twice the size of glycolic acid so it doesn’t go anywhere as deep.

Tartaric: Oh Tartaric. You try, you really do. This is a by-product from the grapes used to make wines. It has very minimal benefits, but enough that during the middle ages wine was used as a skin treatment by hip, castle-dwelling ladies to get glowing skin.

Citric Acid: Completely deserving of its own post, we’ll touch on this quickly.  Vitamin C  can be extremely unstable in liquid or lotion products. When exposed to air or sunlight it oxidizes very quickly and actually causes free radical damage once that happens. Stabilized vitamin C is available but is very expensive so will come with a higher price tag accordingly. In those siuations it does wonders for stimulating collagen growth and brightening the skin beautifully. Vitamin C derivatives (Ascorbyl Plamitate and Magnesium Ascorbyl  Phosphate) are more stable and less irritating but may may not be AS effective. More research is needed!

Either way, beware cheap products that claim Vitamin C as an ingredient, they won’t work because as an effective ingredient it is pricey, no getting around that. Packaging usually needs to be opaque and in an airtight pump.

Are they safe?

What makes this interesting is that because of how deep Glycolic Acid can go it almost takes AHA’s into the realm of being categorized as a drug. Almost. The Cosmetic Ingredients Review Report last looked into them in 1998 and the FDA should hopefully be doing a review again soon. As a result the percentages and pH are strictly implemented to protect the consumer.

• For home use 10% or below and a pH of 3.5 or higher
• Cosmotologists can use 20-30% with a pH of no less than 3
• Dermatologists and doctors can use  50-70%, but this results in severe peeling and redness, some oozing…usually with a recovery time of a week or two.

What terrifies me while writing this is the amount of high percentage glycolics available on online auction sites for anyone with absolutely no training. Shudder.

So use only the suggested percentages for home use! When that’s done, you get all the beautiful  advantages of AHA’s and no face melting.

AHA’s are water soluble and less irritating to the skin than benzoyl peroxide, which makes them great for acneic skin. If you can find an AHA product that has salicylic in it, even better! Because it’s fat-soluble, it can dissolve the oil that clogs pores, lifting out the bacteria and exfoliating away the clumped skin cells.

There can still be side effects of redness, tingling and some itching though. A small amount is ok, but if it becomes unbearable, just rinse away with water.

Tips for types of AHA products.

• It can cause photo sensitivity, try and use the fewest amount of AHA products in your regime as possible and always wear sunscreen. Always. Go put some on right now.
• AHA cleansers don’t really make a lot of sense unless you spend at least two minutes washing your face. The AHA needs to be absorbed and that takes time. Applying and then rinsing does keep your sink drain exfoliated and young looking though.

Conclusion

AHA’s are wonderful. There is one out there for everyone if it’s used properly and instructions are followed. They really do improve the look of skin, people just need to be  careful! Thank you to @ahalchemist for some great info on AHA’s. Because information hasn’t been updated in a decade it can be difficult to find relevant studies.

If you have any questions regarding which AHA products would be good for you, please don’t hesitate to contact us at www.spaboutique.ca or at 1.877.224.4315.