Posts Tagged ‘exfoliation’

Best Exfoliants for your Skin Type Part II

Exfoliation: A Refresher Course

Last week, we took a look at the best body scrubs for your skin type. Today, we’re examining Facial Exfoliants.

What is a Facial Exfoliant?

A facial exfoliant or scrub is a gently coarse or acid wash or masque used to remove dry or dead skin cells and brighten the skin. Many masques also contain exfoliating agents.

Mechanical: Like body scrubs, the coarse part of the exfoliant is made from either salt or sugar, although there are a variety of other materials that can be used. Unlike body scrubs, the granules in a facial scrub should feel like rice flour, soft and grainy, instead of a beach. Since you’ll be applying this scrub directly to your soft facial skin, you want to ensure it’s not going to cut or tear. Avoid using body scrubs on your face as the strong formulations can hurt delicate facial skin.

Chemical: This is the second kind of facial exfoliant. Usually consisting of Alpha or Beta Hydroxy Acid (AHA or BHA) these exfoliants  aim to dissolve dead skin cells instead of scrubbing them away. The added benefits of these exfoliants is they also dissolve oil and sebum, great on oily skin. Depending on their concentration, chemical exfoliant can be used by all skin types.

What is the BEST Method for applying a Facial Exfoliant?

First, Read the instructions. Many facial exfoliants contain active acids or other ingredients in addition to a physical exfoliant. Some need to be left on for a few minutes and others are washed off right away. Some are activated only when combined with water. The key is to thoroughly read the instructions that accompany the product before using it. How often depends on your skin type. The average is 1-2 a week. However, if you have oily skin, aim for 3 times a week. If you notice your skin developing red patches, decrease the number of times you exfoliate a week.

BEST Facial Exfoliant For Sensitive Skin:

Exfoliating is probably my favourite part of my beauty routine. I’m partial to Laboratoire Dr Renaud Satinage Gentle Scrub and Vivescence Perfect Glow Express Exfoliant The jojoba removes dead cells and stimulates the skin. I love the tingly feeling you get from active and physical exfoliants. Lauren, one of our Estheticians, also picks Vivescence Perfect Glow Express as her personal favourite.

BEST Facial Exfoliant For Oily Skin:

Our team picks Phytomer Gommage Marin: Purifying Gommage Exfoliant. If you’re looking for an acid exfoliant instead of a mechanical, make sure to pick one such as Peter Thomas Roth Anti-Aging Cleansing Gel that has BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) as it dissolves oil.

BEST Facial Exfoliant For Normal Skin:

With normal skin, you have the most options (Lucky!). Our most popular exfoliant is Eminence Strawberry Rhubarb Dermafoliant with Lactic Acid A mild, organic exfoliant, it’s gentle enough for daily use, while still offering effective cleansing. Looking for something a little stonger? Opt for B.Kamins Glycolic – 10 (50ml) 

 

BEST Exfoliating Masque:

For the ultimate treat in exfoliation, opt for an exfoliating masque. Two of our favourite Masques are the Eminence Rosehip & Maize Exfoliating Masque (2 oz)  and Beauty Through Balance by Ancient Secrets: Acai Facial Exfoliating Mask (60 ml/2 oz.). A masque treatment is one of the quickest ways to see results and refresh your skin!

BEST Cleansing / Exfoliating Tool:

If you’re serious about skincare, the conversation always turns to the Clarisonic Mia 2 Sonic Skin Cleansing System. It’s one of the most innovative tools for cleansing and exfoliating. Primarily a cleansing tool, you can also use a gentle exfoliant (avoid manual scrubs especially ones with large grains) to achieve deep exfoliation. As the Clarisonic Mia amplifies the effect of the exfoliant, it’s best not to over exfoliate, and you’ll want to limit the number of times you use the combination to twice a week or less depending on your skin type.

 

As always, just for being a follower of our blog, enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!

 

The Complete Skin Care Routine

I’ve recently written a series of posts about the various skin care products that can be used in a routine.

Having been an esthetician, I very quickly learned that you never assume anything when it comes to how people will use things at home.

Stories about women drinking facial serums as opposed to applying them to the skin come to mind.

So here you go! The order in which your skin care routine should happen. Please keep in  mind to ALWAYS follow the instructions on the actual product and please, please, please ask your esthetician if you aren’t exactly sure how to use something.  Certain lines may have you use things in a different order, or have additional kinds of products available. This is an overview of the basics with links to articles that will expand on the product.

***Sunscreen. Always. Every day. Sun damage is responsible for up to 90% of aging in the skin, and it takes years for it to show up. This is the greatest thing you can do for your skin next to getting a lot of sleep.***

Step 1: Cleanse. You can’t effectively do anything else to the skin if it’s covered in a layer of oil, sweat, makeup, dirt and leftovers from the air outside. Don’t be scared to do it twice either if you’re particularly oily of have a lot of makeup on.

Step 2: Tone. This step isn’t always necessary, but does have added benefits. They can have a variety of purposes depending on the formula, but most notable they really ensure the face is completely clean.

Step 3: Exfoliate. This is a flexible step. It can be done gently every day, or slightly more aggressively a few times a week. Either way, everyone can benefit from exfoliating. It brightens skin, evens texture and tone, reduces lines and helps control breakouts. Why would you skip it?

Step 4. Mask. This is done once a week. It is also the most frequently not done at all. Like toning, it’s not critical to a skin care routine. But the will be definite, added benefits to using one. They have a high concentration of ingredients and are the most effective way to see immediate (if temporary) results. Fantastic for special occasions.

Step 5. Serums. These come in many forms. Usually as a treatment, they don’t necessarily need to be used year round. Applied under your moisturizer they can provide a boost to your current routine when you find skin just needs a little oomph in a certain direction.

Step 6. Eye Cream. If you are at all concerned with puffiness, dark circles or those pesky little lines starting at the corners of your eyes, this is an important step. Most skin care professionals are of the opinion that eye cream use should start in the mid 20′s at the latest. Eyes are where we see aging first, and those signs are difficult to reverse.

Step 7. Moisturizers. The last step before makeup application. Most often people choose the wrong one for their skin type. It’s important to have a firm grasp on your actual skin type and use the appropriate one. 1 or 2 pimples does not mean you need an anti-acne one, just because you fear aging while in your 20′s does not mean you should find the most intense anti-aging cream you can get your little mitts on. It will not work and you will not be happy.

If you are in a position where you can only invest in the minimal products I would suggest the following in order of importance:

1. Moisturizer. This is the one that sits and stays on your skin. Go for the best quality you can, which does not mean the most expensive. Learn what works with your skin.

2. Cleanser. While you do rinse this off, using the wrong one can affect the rest of your skin care. Go gentle and soap free.

3. Exfoliant. Find a gentle one (no crushed nuts, pits or shells). I’ve always found cheaper, poorly formulated ones sensitized and irritate the skin like crazy. A good one will give you beautifully smooth, bright skin almost immediately.

That’s a stripped down, bare bones routine.

What’s your routine? What products do you scrimp on and what can you not live without?

We would love to hear your thoughts on the topic of this blog! Feel free to leave your comments or questions below.  As always, just for being a follower of our blog, enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!

PFB: Solution for Ingrown Hairs and Bumps

Waxing and shaving equal sexily awesome smoothness (waxing of course lasting longer but I won’t rant about that here. Save it for another post Sheena….) But there can be side effects. Unsightly, uncomfortable side effects. Bumps, itching, ingrown hairs, breakouts, dry peeling skin…things that don’t feel sexy and are extremely frustrating.

Most people go through the standard steps of exfoliating before and after and that usually helps. There are a lucky few though that continue to experience problems.

Where I see breakouts become the biggest problem is on guys when they get their backs or chests waxed. My heart goes out to them. Not only do they get picked on for body hair that they have no control over (ladies can you imagine how it would feel to have everyone point out your body hair and exclaim “EWWW!!”? Have some compassion.) But they then go through the expensive and painful process of waxing…only to have the area then break out in big, painful bumps and ingrown hairs. So sad.

Working in spas you see it a lot. But it’s only in the last year that I’ve seen something that really works. At Le Petit Spa we can’t even keep this stuff on the shelves.

It’s a roll on gel called PFB Vanish, Perfect For Bumps, that has a small percentage of Salicylic Acid, Glycolic  and Lactic Acid in it. This helps to exfoliate and dissolve oil and buildup, effectively getting rid of ingrown hairs.  It has moisturizers as well, so it doesn’t dry out the skin as much as other similar products.

So for guys this is fantastic, as long as they can get someone to put it on their backs for them. 24 hours after waxing, start putting it on morning and night. It’s dries quickly and you’ll see a noticeable reduction in bumps. It can also be used on on the beard area if you get a lot of razor bur or ingrowns.

Women, you should use it too! Legs, underarms, bikini lines. It does not matter. Roll it on and start seeing results in a day or too. Hair removal can be sexy again.

Please visit www.spaboutique.ca for more great products to help soothe and calm your skin, whatever the issue may be.

We would love to hear your thoughts on the topic of this blog!  Feel free to post your comments or questions below.  As always, just for being a follower of our blog, enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!

The Benefits of Alpha Hydroxy Acids

AHA’s are probably one of the most versatile and multi-purpose ingredients when it comes to skin care. They can be useful to both oily/acneic skin types and the “mature” skin group. This is a rare combination!

AHA’s increase exfoliation by loosening the “glue” that holds skin cells together. In doing so dead skin cells are removed,  oil is controlled, the look of fine lines is reduced, skin coloring is improved and the tone is evened out. All glowy and smooth.

Sounds win/win to me. So why are some more effective or popular than others? Are there side effects? Why do they work?

Why the other AHA’s are jealous of Glycolic.

You know when you see a ridiculously beautiful person and wonder why they won the genetic lottery? Well, Glycolic Acid is the pretty, intelligent, talented sister of the AHA’s. It has a smaller molecular structure and goes further into the skin. Because it penetrates so well, the exfoliation is more complete.

Overview of the overlooked AHA’s.

Lactic: We’ve all heard the “Cleopatra bathing in milk” story. There is a reason. Lactic acid usually comes from soured dairy products and is gentler than Glycolic. With the larger molecules they don’t absorb as deep, therefore cause less irritation, it’s wonderful for more sensitive skins. Exfoliating, softening, moisturizing and humectant-y (holds water in the uppers layers of the epidermis=firm and plump!) lactic is definitely not to be ignored.

Malic: The sour acid. Found in unripe fruit, tart foods and especially apples, Malic is a gentle exfoliant that is smoothing. It does have anti-oxidant properties, but those are mostly from ingesting the foods it’s found in. Like sour keys. Kidding. There’s no research to indicate that it’s topically beneficial in slowing the aging process, but it does provide a little more exfoliation when included in products. It’s molecules are twice the size of glycolic acid so it doesn’t go anywhere as deep.

Tartaric: Oh Tartaric. You try, you really do. This is a by-product from the grapes used to make wines. It has very minimal benefits, but enough that during the middle ages wine was used as a skin treatment by hip, castle-dwelling ladies to get glowing skin.

Citric Acid: Completely deserving of its own post, we’ll touch on this quickly.  Vitamin C  can be extremely unstable in liquid or lotion products. When exposed to air or sunlight it oxidizes very quickly and actually causes free radical damage once that happens. Stabilized vitamin C is available but is very expensive so will come with a higher price tag accordingly. In those siuations it does wonders for stimulating collagen growth and brightening the skin beautifully. Vitamin C derivatives (Ascorbyl Plamitate and Magnesium Ascorbyl  Phosphate) are more stable and less irritating but may may not be AS effective. More research is needed!

Either way, beware cheap products that claim Vitamin C as an ingredient, they won’t work because as an effective ingredient it is pricey, no getting around that. Packaging usually needs to be opaque and in an airtight pump.

Are they safe?

What makes this interesting is that because of how deep Glycolic Acid can go it almost takes AHA’s into the realm of being categorized as a drug. Almost. The Cosmetic Ingredients Review Report last looked into them in 1998 and the FDA should hopefully be doing a review again soon. As a result the percentages and pH are strictly implemented to protect the consumer.

• For home use 10% or below and a pH of 3.5 or higher
• Cosmetologists can use 20-30% with a pH of no less than 3
• Dermatologists and doctors can use  50-70%, but this results in severe peeling and redness, some oozing…usually with a recovery time of a week or two.

What terrifies me while writing this is the amount of high percentage glycolics available on online auction sites for anyone with absolutely no training. Shudder.

So use only the suggested percentages for home use! When that’s done, you get all the beautiful  advantages of AHA’s and no face melting.

AHA’s are water soluble and less irritating to the skin than benzoyl peroxide, which makes them great for acneic skin. If you can find an AHA product that has salicylic in it, even better! Because it’s fat-soluble, it can dissolve the oil that clogs pores, lifting out the bacteria and exfoliating away the clumped skin cells.

There can still be side effects of redness, tingling and some itching though. A small amount is ok, but if it becomes unbearable, just rinse away with water.

Tips for types of AHA products.

• It can cause photo sensitivity, try and use the fewest amount of AHA products in your regime as possible and always wear sunscreen. Always. Go put some on right now.
• AHA cleansers don’t really make a lot of sense unless you spend at least two minutes washing your face. The AHA needs to be absorbed and that takes time. Applying and then rinsing does keep your sink drain exfoliated and young looking though.

Conclusion

AHA’s are wonderful. There is one out there for everyone if it’s used properly and instructions are followed. They really do improve the look of skin, people just need to be  careful! Thank you to @ahalchemist for some great info on AHA’s. Because information hasn’t been updated in a decade it can be difficult to find relevant studies.

 

We would love to hear your thoughts on the topic of this blog!  Feel free to post your comments or questions below.  As always, just for being a follower of our blog, enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!

Glycolic Products: Exfoliating for clearer, brighter skin.

As an esthetician, I’ve seen first hand the glorious radiance that results from glycolic acid use. I’ve done my best to compile all the relevant information in one place for you, so that you don’t have to go searching everywhere to get your answer.

This month at Spa Boutique, we’re highlighting products containing glycolic acids. But we just wanted to make sure everyone is clear on what and who they are for! Let’s begin shall we?

What.

Glycolic Acid is an naturally occurring fruit acid that is found in fruits, beets and sugar cane. It’s one of five Alpha Hydroxy Acids (lactic, malic, citric and tartaric…more on  those next week) that are used through out skincare for various purposes.

Glycolic itself is used to encourage the shedding of old, sun damaged, dull, built up surface skin cells to reveal  new, healthy skin. In other words, it exfoliates. Really, really well.

Higher percentages are used professionally by physicians, dermatologists and some spas  to do Chemical Peels; lower percentages are completely safe to use at home on a regular basis.

How.

This is just neat. When applied to the skin it penetrates, dissolving  the “glue” that holds the dead skin cells together and on the skin. No longer attached, they start to peel off. This is not as horrific as it sounds. Once those are  gone, you’re left with all that new, baby-fresh skin. Beautiful.

Because of this they can cause sun-sensitivities, so wear sunscreen.

Who.

They great thing about glycolics is that in varying degrees and formulations they’re beneficial for almost everyone. Standard contraindications apply though, as with most slightly-more-aggressive-skincare:

• Accutane users. Wait at least a year after your finished your round of this medication before you attempt glycolic use. Burning and scarring has been know to happen.
• Herpes, cold sores, severe acne or any other reason for having open lesions on the skin. Wait until everything is completely healed before branching into glycolic use.
• Undergoing cancer treatment.
• Extremely sensitive skin or rosacea. Look for specific formulations for these skin types. If it’s too much for your skin, you’ll know. Stop using it.
• Extreme, thick scarring.
• Bleeding disorders
• **Pregnancy** This is something that comes up quite frequently and has no definitive answer. There are no studies proving or dis-proving the safety of glycolic use during pregnancy. More than likely it’s fine, but always consult your doctor first. During the first 3-6 months of a pregnancy skin can be more reactive as well, so do be cautious and use the gentlest skincare possible.

Why are they so awesome?

• It will help to reduce the look of the first signs of aging, fine lines, brown spots and help clear up the appearance of acne.
• It exfoliates, leaving skin radiant and smooth
• It may increase circulation, improving collagen and elastin production over time, this has not been fully proven yet though
• It allows other products to penetrate easier, meaning that obscenely expensive serum you purchased will do a better job.
• Glycolics are also moisturizing as well, but a regular use of a moisturizer is always recommended

How does it benefit specific skin types?

All product usage ultimately comes down to personal taste and experience, but it’s always good to make sure you have realistic expectations and are using the product properly to see results. Regardless of skin type or condition some pinkness or tingling may occur but it should never be unbearable. Always finish with a moisturizer and SPF.

• Normal Skin: 2-3 times a week will help to refine texture, exfoliate away build up and may fade small scars.
• Dry skin: Following the directions of your specific product, it will help to moisturize and increase the effectiveness of serums and moisturizers applied afterward. You may experience some flaky patches for a bit, but stick to it!
• Oily/acneic skin: More consistent use, daily or twice daily, glycolics will help to control oil. That in combination with the exfoliating properties will help to clear and even out the skin. At the beginning there may be a flare up of blackheads and pimples, but this is common and should calm down after awhile. Also look for brands that combine salicylic acid with the glycolic for effective results.
• Mature Skin: Consistent use will again help to diminish the look of fine lines and make all other anti-aging products more effective. Glycolic products can be used in combination with Retin-A, but should be used alternately. This is an aggressive and effective way to improve texture but can cause irritation and redness. Talk to your dermatologist or esthetician before under going this course, and pay attention to how your skin reacts.
• Sensitive: Use glycolics with caution, do a spot test on your inner wrist to see how it goes. If there is no reaction then by all means go ahead! Gradually work up to more regular use.

Interesting and important facts that did not fit under the other headings.

You absolutely must use a full skincare regimen with glycolics. They do not protect the skin in any way and can leave it slightly more vulnerable. Hydrate and apply sunscreen, ideally as a mineral makeup. Those tend to be gentler on the skin and more effective sunblocks. I cannot stress this enough.

You don’t necessarily have to use glycolic products year round. Some professionals say yes, some no. Talk to your skincare solution provider to see what they recommend for you. You can always use them in cycles. 3 months on, 3 months off.

The percentages for home use should be around 10%, but new findings are saying the % doesn’t matter as much as the pH. I could not find a reliable source of information to provide an answer to that though. Many professional lines will not even display the % and some do (B. Kamins). You’ll know if it’s working if you get a slight tingling.

If you suffer from those little bumpies on the backs of your arms, Keratosis Pilaris, a glycolic product can be great to solve that.

In Conclusion:

Glycolics provide a simple and extremely effective way to a beautiful complexion. They’ve come a long way and are more effective and easier to tolerate than ever before. If you haven’t tried them before, Spa Boutique carries several excellent glycolic acid-based lines like Jan Marini Bioglycolic and B.Kamins.

 

We would love to hear your thoughts on the topic of this blog!  Feel free to post your comments or questions below.  As always, just for being a follower of our blog, enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!