Posts Tagged ‘Glycolic Acid’

PFB: Solution for Ingrown Hairs and Bumps

Waxing and shaving equal sexily awesome smoothness (waxing of course lasting longer but I won’t rant about that here. Save it for another post Sheena….) But there can be side effects. Unsightly, uncomfortable side effects. Bumps, itching, ingrown hairs, breakouts, dry peeling skin…things that don’t feel sexy and are extremely frustrating.

Most people go through the standard steps of exfoliating before and after and that usually helps. There are a lucky few though that continue to experience problems.

Where I see breakouts become the biggest problem is on guys when they get their backs or chests waxed. My heart goes out to them. Not only do they get picked on for body hair that they have no control over (ladies can you imagine how it would feel to have everyone point out your body hair and exclaim “EWWW!!”? Have some compassion.) But they then go through the expensive and painful process of waxing…only to have the area then break out in big, painful bumps and ingrown hairs. So sad.

Working in spas you see it a lot. But it’s only in the last year that I’ve seen something that really works. At Le Petit Spa we can’t even keep this stuff on the shelves.

It’s a roll on gel called PFB Vanish, Perfect For Bumps, that has a small percentage of Salicylic Acid, Glycolic  and Lactic Acid in it. This helps to exfoliate and dissolve oil and buildup, effectively getting rid of ingrown hairs.  It has moisturizers as well, so it doesn’t dry out the skin as much as other similar products.

So for guys this is fantastic, as long as they can get someone to put it on their backs for them. 24 hours after waxing, start putting it on morning and night. It’s dries quickly and you’ll see a noticeable reduction in bumps. It can also be used on on the beard area if you get a lot of razor bur or ingrowns.

Women, you should use it too! Legs, underarms, bikini lines. It does not matter. Roll it on and start seeing results in a day or too. Hair removal can be sexy again.

Please visit www.spaboutique.ca for more great products to help soothe and calm your skin, whatever the issue may be.

We would love to hear your thoughts on the topic of this blog!  Feel free to post your comments or questions below.  As always, just for being a follower of our blog, enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!

The Benefits of Alpha Hydroxy Acids

AHA’s are probably one of the most versatile and multi-purpose ingredients when it comes to skin care. They can be useful to both oily/acneic skin types and the “mature” skin group. This is a rare combination!

AHA’s increase exfoliation by loosening the “glue” that holds skin cells together. In doing so dead skin cells are removed,  oil is controlled, the look of fine lines is reduced, skin coloring is improved and the tone is evened out. All glowy and smooth.

Sounds win/win to me. So why are some more effective or popular than others? Are there side effects? Why do they work?

Why the other AHA’s are jealous of Glycolic.

You know when you see a ridiculously beautiful person and wonder why they won the genetic lottery? Well, Glycolic Acid is the pretty, intelligent, talented sister of the AHA’s. It has a smaller molecular structure and goes further into the skin. Because it penetrates so well, the exfoliation is more complete.

Overview of the overlooked AHA’s.

Lactic: We’ve all heard the “Cleopatra bathing in milk” story. There is a reason. Lactic acid usually comes from soured dairy products and is gentler than Glycolic. With the larger molecules they don’t absorb as deep, therefore cause less irritation, it’s wonderful for more sensitive skins. Exfoliating, softening, moisturizing and humectant-y (holds water in the uppers layers of the epidermis=firm and plump!) lactic is definitely not to be ignored.

Malic: The sour acid. Found in unripe fruit, tart foods and especially apples, Malic is a gentle exfoliant that is smoothing. It does have anti-oxidant properties, but those are mostly from ingesting the foods it’s found in. Like sour keys. Kidding. There’s no research to indicate that it’s topically beneficial in slowing the aging process, but it does provide a little more exfoliation when included in products. It’s molecules are twice the size of glycolic acid so it doesn’t go anywhere as deep.

Tartaric: Oh Tartaric. You try, you really do. This is a by-product from the grapes used to make wines. It has very minimal benefits, but enough that during the middle ages wine was used as a skin treatment by hip, castle-dwelling ladies to get glowing skin.

Citric Acid: Completely deserving of its own post, we’ll touch on this quickly.  Vitamin C  can be extremely unstable in liquid or lotion products. When exposed to air or sunlight it oxidizes very quickly and actually causes free radical damage once that happens. Stabilized vitamin C is available but is very expensive so will come with a higher price tag accordingly. In those siuations it does wonders for stimulating collagen growth and brightening the skin beautifully. Vitamin C derivatives (Ascorbyl Plamitate and Magnesium Ascorbyl  Phosphate) are more stable and less irritating but may may not be AS effective. More research is needed!

Either way, beware cheap products that claim Vitamin C as an ingredient, they won’t work because as an effective ingredient it is pricey, no getting around that. Packaging usually needs to be opaque and in an airtight pump.

Are they safe?

What makes this interesting is that because of how deep Glycolic Acid can go it almost takes AHA’s into the realm of being categorized as a drug. Almost. The Cosmetic Ingredients Review Report last looked into them in 1998 and the FDA should hopefully be doing a review again soon. As a result the percentages and pH are strictly implemented to protect the consumer.

• For home use 10% or below and a pH of 3.5 or higher
• Cosmetologists can use 20-30% with a pH of no less than 3
• Dermatologists and doctors can use  50-70%, but this results in severe peeling and redness, some oozing…usually with a recovery time of a week or two.

What terrifies me while writing this is the amount of high percentage glycolics available on online auction sites for anyone with absolutely no training. Shudder.

So use only the suggested percentages for home use! When that’s done, you get all the beautiful  advantages of AHA’s and no face melting.

AHA’s are water soluble and less irritating to the skin than benzoyl peroxide, which makes them great for acneic skin. If you can find an AHA product that has salicylic in it, even better! Because it’s fat-soluble, it can dissolve the oil that clogs pores, lifting out the bacteria and exfoliating away the clumped skin cells.

There can still be side effects of redness, tingling and some itching though. A small amount is ok, but if it becomes unbearable, just rinse away with water.

Tips for types of AHA products.

• It can cause photo sensitivity, try and use the fewest amount of AHA products in your regime as possible and always wear sunscreen. Always. Go put some on right now.
• AHA cleansers don’t really make a lot of sense unless you spend at least two minutes washing your face. The AHA needs to be absorbed and that takes time. Applying and then rinsing does keep your sink drain exfoliated and young looking though.

Conclusion

AHA’s are wonderful. There is one out there for everyone if it’s used properly and instructions are followed. They really do improve the look of skin, people just need to be  careful! Thank you to @ahalchemist for some great info on AHA’s. Because information hasn’t been updated in a decade it can be difficult to find relevant studies.

 

We would love to hear your thoughts on the topic of this blog!  Feel free to post your comments or questions below.  As always, just for being a follower of our blog, enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!

How to Correct Skin Flaws: Tips on What to Watch For in Products

Glycolic Skin Care Facts & Products To Look For

What is Glycolic Acid?
It is a Fruit acid containing natural chemicals and is also known as alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). They occur naturally from certain fruits such as grapes, citrus and apples, which are then modified in a laboratory.

Definition from wikipedia.org:
Glycolic acid (or hydroxyacetic acid) is the smallest α-hydroxy acid (AHA). It appears in the form of a colourless, odorless and hygroscopic crystalline solid that is highly soluble in water and related solvents. Glycolic acid is associated with sugar-crops and is isolated from sugarcane, sugar beets, and unripe grapes.

What is a Glycolic Peel?
It is the removal of skin surfaces using a fruit acid. This light peel or superficial peel is administered by a physician or esthetician. They swab on a solution that boosts your skins softness, smoothness, freshness and dewiness. If you’re acne-prone, salicylic acid (a cousin to glycolic acid) may be used instead. Glycolic-acid peels are performed at spas (where the acid concentration is typically 20-30- percent) and in dermatology and plastic-surgery offices (where the 50-70 percent concentration packs more of a wallop). Glycolic peels cost from $65-$125 a pop depending on the spa or doctor’s office you visit, may involve some slight stinging or tingling but can be performed safely on practically all skin types.

What is the difference between Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid?
Natural fruit acids (alpha hydroxy acids or AHAs) rejuvenate the skin by encouraging the shedding of old, sun-damaged surface skin cells. Glycolic acid is the alpha hydroxy acid most frequently used for facial treatments but lactic and citric acid are also useful. Of course, lactic acid doesn’t come from fruit – it comes from milk.

10 Facts about Glycolic Acid and Skin Care:

1. Acts as a keratolytic (removes top layers of skin) agent and opens clogged pores
2. It is used to improve the skin’s appearance and texture.
3. Sheds old, sun-damaged surface skin cells
4. It may reduce wrinkles
5. Used as a skin care treatment in exfoliation creams and masks
6. At high concentrations of AHAs peeling occur as a result of damage or death of certain skin cells.
7. Can cause increased skin thickness, improvement of skin elasticity and increased collagen content
8. Treats acne and acne scarring
9. Treats hyperpigmentation
10. Glycolic acid is also used for tattoo removal

How Does Glycolic Acid work?
Once applied, glycolic acid reacts with the upper layer of the epidermis, weakening the binding properties of the lipids that hold the dead skin cells together. This allows the outer skin to “dissolve” revealing the underlying, healthier, smoother, brighter-looking skin. It also stimulates Collagen and Elastin in the second layer of the skin (the dermis), which is the key to looking younger. Glycolic Acid, cleans the follicle- lossening the glue-like substances that holds dead cells together that cause acne. It can have a peeling/shedding effect, which is healthy for your skin, so don’t be alarmed. Your skin will have a healthier glow & fine lines and wrinkles will diminish. Results can range from 3- 6 months depending on regimen, percentages of glycolic acid in products chosen, and your original skin condition. (Every human body improves at different rates. So be patient!)

What and where to look for Glycolic Home Care Products:
Due to its excellent capability to penetrate skin, glycolic acid finds applications in skin care products, most often as a chemical peel performed by a dermatologist or spa esthitician in concentrations of 20%-70% or at-home professional kits in lower concentrations of 8-20%, ussually the hand and feet products are higher than the face products. (you can find some products with lower than 8% from the drug stores but they may not get rid of wrinkles as well as expected). If you use higher percentages at home, make sure you follow the manufacturers usage instructions carefully (ie using SPFs) . Also, if you have sensitive skin, use products with lower percentages.

Some Recommended Professional Lines that Carry Glycolic Acid Products:

• Jan Marini Skin Research ‘Bioglycolic’– Glycolic acid range
• Yonka Skin Care – Alpha-Complex Wrinkle Defense Retexturizing Gel with AHA’s
• B.Kamins Skin Care Products - Topical glycolic acid 10%

As always, just for being a follower of our blog, enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!

Acne Problem Skin Tips: breakout, blackheads, clogged pores

What Can I do About Blemishes, Acne and other Problem Prone Skin Conditions?

There is no single cause for acne and problem prone skin. Genetics and changes in hormonal activity, first stimulated during adolescence, play a main role in problem prone skin. Also, while diet is important for skin health, certain foods do not directly cause acne and blemishes. But other factors such as stress, hormonal fluctuations, hot and humid climates, some medications and certain cosmetic ingredients can irritate the skin and clog pores, which can aggravate acne and blemishes. Because of all these factors, acne can even develop in adult skin.

Technically, this condition is caused by a combination of excess dead skin cells, bacteria and excess sebum or skin oil. When bacteria combine with oil and dead skin cells in the hair follicles, it can lead to inflammation. This inflammation, know as acne, may be in the form of numerous but less obvious whiteheads and blackheads or larger, visible eruptions such as papules and pustules.

The Skin Test

• Do you consistently experience areas of blemishes and large eruptions?
• Is your skin texture bumpy and uneven with whiteheads and blackheads?
• Do you have enlarged pores that often become clogged?

Tips and Techniques for Oily: Problem Prone Skin

• Avoid rubbing or scrubbing skin excessively or picking blemishes, which can irritate skin and lead to scarring.
• Cleanse skin morning and night to remove excess oil and dead cells.
• Use gentle exfoliants such as glycolic acid and/or lactic acid to smooth and normalize skin.
• Control Breakouts and blemishes with skin care that contains salicylic acid and vitamin A, or benzoyl peroxide for antibacterial benefits.
• Use and oil-free moisturizer that will hydrate the inner layers of the skin without contributing to clogged pores.
• Use a skin-cleansing masque, such as one with natural clay, vitamin A and gentle AHAs and BHAs to clear pore-clogging oil and dead cells and re-texturize problem prone skin.
• Protect your skin daily with a physical sunscreen containing zinc oxide with SPF 15 or greater.
• Use non-comedogenic skin care, make-up and hair care to prevent clogged pores and irritation.

The following is a recommended treatment for problem prone skin with Jan Marini Skin Research Products: Glycolic Acid 4 step process:

1. Cleanse with Jan Marini Bioglycolic Oily Skin Cleansing Gel– cleanses, exfoliates and clarifies oily skin. Contains glycolic acid.
2. Correct Jan Marini Bioglycolic Bioclear Face Lotion – diminishes breakout, large pores, fine lines, and exfoliates.
3. Hydrate & Protece – Jan Marini Antioxidant Daily Face Protectant SPF 30 – oil-free formula

Advanced Products for Problem Prone Skin:

• Jan Marini Benzoyl Peroxide Acne Treatment Lotion 5% – Aids in reducing the appearance of acne and enlarged pores with minimal dryness and irritation.
• Jan Marini Clean Zyme Face Cleanser – Green Papaya Enzyme - Cleanses and exfoliates to smooth and clear skin, reduces clogged pores and breakout
• Jan Marini Skin Zyme Papaya Mask – gently exfoliates, clears clogged pores and breakout

As always, just for being a follower of our blog, enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!