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Posts Tagged ‘moisturizing’

Do Age-Defying Creams and Lotions really work?

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Monday January 11th, 2010

Anti-aging is big business in cosmetics.

Most people learn their skin care and information from commercials on the tv and ads in the magazines. As a result most are skeptical about the claims they see.

Rightly so!

The ads are clearly edited and photoshoped and it’s highly unlikely Beyonce actually uses boxed hair dye. So thus far the visuals are all lies.

What about the claims?

They dazzle you with quick, fancy graphs and percentages that show cells plumping and wrinkles drastically reduced. However the fine print that appears for .3 second will clearly state “Results not typical” or “tested on 16 women”.  For the most part what they are showing is that your skin is more moisturized when you, you guessed it, use a moisturizer.

So what results can you expect from an anti-aging moisturizer?

1-Have realistic expectations: No cream will stop wrinkles or get rid of them. No matter what they claim. They can only ever reduce the look and help to slow down the appearance of new ones.

2-They only work if you use them. I often get asked how frequently the product needs to be used.  Skin is constantly assaulted by UV, pollution and the natural aging process. Usage of any product needs to be consistent if you want to protect it. the other issue is that repairative products need at least a full skin cell cycle to really make a change. Otherwise you’re asking dead skin cells to act younger. 6-8 weeks of consistent use gives the active ingredients time to nourish the new cells and improve them as they grow. There are no results over night.

3-What are they really doing? Mostly hydrating. This plumps the cells and reduces wrinkle depth. Certain ingredients are thought to increase collagen production over time. Some will also exfoliate which will further reduce the depth and will also brighten and even the tone.

They should also protect. Prevention is much easier than repair. SPF and occlusive barriers will protect against excessive damage and will hold in all that lovely moisture and nourishing ingredients.

4-Will a moisturizer be enough? You will see some improvement with simply using a well-formulated moisturizer. Whether you invest in other products is entirely up to your comfort level and the results you are seeing.

  • A gentle cleanser and toner will be fine. Anything too aggressive will irritate the skin. Dry and sensitized skin will always look older.
  • Exfoliating. This is just about as important at moisturizing. Removing the dead skin cells improves skin function, evens and brightens tone and ensure better product absorption. Retin-A and AHA products give the deepest and most even exfoliation are known to increase collagen over time as well.
  • Serum: These deposit highly active ingredients deeply into the skin. They work best when used as short term treatments and are a great way to boost a focused routine, or address a separate skin issue.
  • Eye Creams: These are best as prevention as well. There are many genetic factors to how our eyes age and many are very difficult to reverse once they  occurred.
  • Sunscreen: This is the single greatest step you can take to keep your skin looking it’s best. Sun damage is responsible for almost all of the aging (other than the natural process) that happens to the skin. Plus it takes at least a decade. Protection from the sun now will benefit your skin later on.

Some ingredients to look for:

There are really a fairly limited number of ingredients that actually work at making the skin appear healthier and younger. This is not a comprehensive list but it will give you a basic idea of some of the most available things to look for:

  • Vitamins A, C, E- All three have anti-oxidant properties, however it’s never actually been proven that these can protect against some aspects of aging. The research is ongoing and looks promising.  It certainly sounds fancy and that’s why so many cosmetics companies stress their important. They are thought to help slow free radical damage.
  • AHA/Glycolic/Lactic/Salicylic Acid: Deeply exfoliating, these even and smooth out the skin and encourage collagen production which will improve tone. Salicylic is great for those that want anti-aging and have oilier skin.
  • Retin-A: Still by far the most effective at home ingredient. It’s very aggressive and can cause some sensitivity
  • Glycosaminoglycans: Complex proteins that are essential for healthy skin function. They include Hyaluronic Acid, Muccopolysaccharides and Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF)
  • Ceramides: naturally occuring fats in the skin, they help create a barrier to prevent moisture loss.
  • Peptides: if formulated correctly (stable, accompanied by a carrier and actually able to make it through the skin without breaking down) they have tissue-healing benefits.

Different lines sometimes have their own patented technology as well.

Conclusion:

Cosmetics are not a replacement for medical treatment or surgery, they will not get rid of or stop your wrinkles. The best they can do is make your skin look as healthy and balanced as possible. You can easily reduce the look of lines and help to slow down future damage. Soft, bright, even skin tone can go very far and make skin look beautiful.

Have you found any products or ingredients to be more effective than others?

We would love to hear your thoughts on the topic of this blog! Feel free to leave your comments or questions below.  As always, just for being a follower of our blog, enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!

The Benefits of Alpha Hydroxy Acids

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Wednesday February 11th, 2009

ahaAHA’s are probably one of the most versatile and multi-purpose ingredients when it comes to skin care. They can be useful to both oily/acneic skin types and the “mature” skin group. This is a rare combination!

AHA’s increase exfoliation by loosening the “glue” that holds skin cells together. In doing so dead skin cells are removed,  oil is controlled, the look of fine lines is reduced, skin coloring is improved and the tone is evened out. All glowy and smooth.

Sounds win/win to me. So why are some more effective or popular than others? Are there side effects? Why do they work?

Why the other AHA’s are jealous of Glycolic.

You know when you see a ridiculously beautiful person and wonder why they won the genetic lottery? Well, Glycolic Acid is the pretty, intelligent, talented sister of the AHA’s. It has a smaller molecular structure and goes further into the skin. Because it penetrates so well, the exfoliation is more complete.

Overview of the overlooked AHA’s.

Lactic: We’ve all heard the “Cleopatra bathing in milk” story. There is a reason. Lactic acid usually comes from soured dairy products and is gentler than Glycolic. With the larger molecules they don’t absorb as deep, therefore cause less irritation, it’s wonderful for more sensitive skins. Exfoliating, softening, moisturizing and humectant-y (holds water in the uppers layers of the epidermis=firm and plump!) lactic is definitely not to be ignored.

Malic: The sour acid. Found in unripe fruit, tart foods and especially apples, Malic is a gentle exfoliant that is smoothing. It does have anti-oxidant properties, but those are mostly from ingesting the foods it’s found in. Like sour keys. Kidding. There’s no research to indicate that it’s topically beneficial in slowing the aging process, but it does provide a little more exfoliation when included in products. It’s molecules are twice the size of glycolic acid so it doesn’t go anywhere as deep.

Tartaric: Oh Tartaric. You try, you really do. This is a by-product from the grapes used to make wines. It has very minimal benefits, but enough that during the middle ages wine was used as a skin treatment by hip, castle-dwelling ladies to get glowing skin.

Citric Acid: Completely deserving of its own post, we’ll touch on this quickly.  Vitamin C  can be extremely unstable in liquid or lotion products. When exposed to air or sunlight it oxidizes very quickly and actually causes free radical damage once that happens. Stabilized vitamin C is available but is very expensive so will come with a higher price tag accordingly. In those siuations it does wonders for stimulating collagen growth and brightening the skin beautifully. Vitamin C derivatives (Ascorbyl Plamitate and Magnesium Ascorbyl  Phosphate) are more stable and less irritating but may may not be AS effective. More research is needed!

Either way, beware cheap products that claim Vitamin C as an ingredient, they won’t work because as an effective ingredient it is pricey, no getting around that. Packaging usually needs to be opaque and in an airtight pump.

Are they safe?

What makes this interesting is that because of how deep Glycolic Acid can go it almost takes AHA’s into the realm of being categorized as a drug. Almost. The Cosmetic Ingredients Review Report last looked into them in 1998 and the FDA should hopefully be doing a review again soon. As a result the percentages and pH are strictly implemented to protect the consumer.

  • For home use 10% or below and a pH of 3.5 or higher
  • Cosmetologists can use 20-30% with a pH of no less than 3
  • Dermatologists and doctors can use  50-70%, but this results in severe peeling and redness, some oozing…usually with a recovery time of a week or two.

What terrifies me while writing this is the amount of high percentage glycolics available on online auction sites for anyone with absolutely no training. Shudder.

So use only the suggested percentages for home use! When that’s done, you get all the beautiful  advantages of AHA’s and no face melting.

AHA’s are water soluble and less irritating to the skin than benzoyl peroxide, which makes them great for acneic skin. If you can find an AHA product that has salicylic in it, even better! Because it’s fat-soluble, it can dissolve the oil that clogs pores, lifting out the bacteria and exfoliating away the clumped skin cells.

There can still be side effects of redness, tingling and some itching though. A small amount is ok, but if it becomes unbearable, just rinse away with water.

Tips for types of AHA products.

  • It can cause photo sensitivity, try and use the fewest amount of AHA products in your regime as possible and always wear sunscreen. Always. Go put some on right now.
  • AHA cleansers don’t really make a lot of sense unless you spend at least two minutes washing your face. The AHA needs to be absorbed and that takes time. Applying and then rinsing does keep your sink drain exfoliated and young looking though.

Conclusion

AHA’s are wonderful. There is one out there for everyone if it’s used properly and instructions are followed. They really do improve the look of skin, people just need to be  careful! Thank you to @ahalchemist for some great info on AHA’s. Because information hasn’t been updated in a decade it can be difficult to find relevant studies.

 

We would love to hear your thoughts on the topic of this blog!  Feel free to post your comments or questions below.  As always, just for being a follower of our blog, enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!

Winter Skin – 6 Tips and tricks to help relieve dry, itchy, flaky skin

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Tuesday January 6th, 2009


This has been an interesting winter. Here in Vancouver we’ve been covered in unusual amounts of snow and it has everyone hysterical over every aspect of their lives. It’s time to regain some control!

When winter starts to suck all the suppleness out of our bodies, there are a few steps that can definitely make you feel like the smooth, glowing goddess you are on the inside.

1. Save energy, water and your skin!
As wonderful as a long hot shower or bath is during those seemingly endless cold, dark mornings, shorter more tepid habits will save you skin. Hot water breaks down the lipid barrier that holds moisture in, aggravating the situation…which is counter productive to feeling good. If your skin is extremely dry and itchy, add 1/3 of a cup of oatmeal to the bath water to soothe the skin. Another great alternative is the Golden Moor Mud Baths, they replenish the skin and come in relaxing scents such as Chocolate (so yummy!) and Lavender.

2. Exfoliate
Once or twice a week, gently exfoliate your whole body. This will remove the build up of dry, flaking skin and help your moisturizer penetrate deeper. Those dead skin cells do not need or deserve your beautiful moisturizer, so get rid of them! Make sure to use an effective exfoliant! A wash cloth or shower pouf isn’t always enough. You need to use a loofah, scrub glove or exfoliating product such as Phytomer Toning Body Scrub or Golden Moor Body Scrub and Polish to really remove that build up. Keep in mind these recommendations are for the body, not the face.

3. Moisturize…and then moisturize some more.
This should really be done at least twice a day during the colder, drier months. In the morning right after you get out of the shower, apply a moisturizer rich in essential fatty acids. This will seal in moisture and make skin soft and supple. Apply once more before bed. A good moisturizer will actually start to change your skin. It should penetrate and re-store all that’s been lost in the skin. If after 2 weeks you haven’t noticed a difference in your skin, then you need to switch! Some great ones are SpaRitual’s Instinctual Moisturizing Lotion andSpa Binge Organics Body Shea Rich Cream.

4. Use Winter-Friendly products
Shower gels are more suited to warmer months. During the winter be indulgent, reach for shower creams, thicker body, hand and foot lotions. Be creative! Body oils are wonderful for this time of year, Guinot has an absolutely beautiful one called Guinot Huile Satinee; they moisturize like crazy and leave skin feeling amazing. Like anything else, make sure it’s high quality oil that will actually absorb and not make your skin feel slick.

5. Use Sunscreen
This is the Golden Rule for skincare. Summer, fall, winter and spring. Use it. All the time. UVA and UVB rays are magnified when bounced off of snow, add that to winds and cold air…poor face! The least you can do is protect it the same way you would during the summer. Try B. Kamins Bio-Maple Sunbar, it’s oil and fragrance free and perfect for the most sensitive skins.

6. Focus on hands and feet.
Use lotions formulated specifically for those areas. They’ll penetrate much better and have countless added benefits. Hand creams can help prevent aging, hyper-pigmentation (liver and sun spots) and will keep your hands from cracking. Foot creams are designed to actually make it through that tough skin. Gehwol, Allpressan and Footlogix have years of technology and research behind them proving they can make a difference. There is no reason your feet or hands should be cracking!

Consistency will be your biggest ally. Get in to the habit of applying moisturizer and not only will you protect your skin during the winter months, you’ll be creating a beautifully relaxing personal ritual that will keep your skin looking younger and healthier for life.

 

We would love to hear your thoughts on the topic of this blog!  Feel free to post your comments or questions below.  As always, just for being a follower of our blog, enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!

Softening and Moisturizing Feet Overnight

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Monday May 22nd, 2006

Spring and Summer reward us with many sunny days and warm nights. The hot weather however can have you wanting to hide your dry, cracked, peeling feet in the sand or enclosed in shoes. Below is an at home remedy that I always use which will soften your feet overnight!

Materials Needed:

Directions:

  • Slather warm lotion in a thick layer all over feet
  • Wrap feet in plastic wrap
  • Put socks on over wrap and leave on overnight
  • Remove socks in the morning and voila; soft, smooth and sexy feet ready for the beach!!

We would love to hear your thoughts on the topic of this blog.  As special offer just for being a follower of our blog enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!

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