Posts Tagged ‘skeyndor’

Sensitive Skin Make-Up Q&A

Today, we’ve decided to tackle some of your questions about sensitive skin and make-up. Like nearly 62% of women, I suffer from sensitive skin. Some days, picking out a new product can feel a little like Russian Roulette – you never know if it’s going to help or make the problem worse. Everyday, our esthetics team receives a lot of questions about how to manage, treat or make up sensitive skin.

Dear Spa Girl: I have sensitive skin but want to try some of the crazy eye shadow trends. Is there a brand that won’t hurt my skin or make my eyes water?

This is a really common problem, especially with office workers. Staring at that computer all day? It’s a recipe for some serious eyestrain. As silly as it sounds, my first question is, are you blinking enough? Often we’re eager to blame the make-up when we really need to look at our life style.

Either way, it sounds you need the Lady Jane Iredale. Her wide array of natural mineral make-up goes on soft and doesn’t flake. I really like the Pure Pressed Eye shadows. There are 40 fun colours to create as many looks as you can imagine.

Jane Iredale PurePressed Eye Shadow: Choice of Colors
Jane Iredale PurePressed Trio/Triple Eye Shadow (2.8 g)
Jane Iredale Eye Gloss (10 Shades)

Dear Spa Girl: Recently, I’ve noticed my favorite lipstick is making my lips chapped and so sensitive I can barely wear it. What is the best lipstick for sensitive lips like mine?

Oh no! Lip chapping is one of the most frustrating skin issues. Before we jump into lipsticks, it’s important to ensure you’re treating and protecting you lips. Do you use a protectant as well as a lipstick? Our estheticians recommend adding a pre-treatment, such as Jane Iredale Lip Drink SPF 15 (5.2g).  Your lips will recover faster and you’ll notice less irritation.

Also, you should try adding a proper exfoliating treatment, such as Jane Iredale Sugar & Butter Lip Scrub & Plumper (3 g),

to help prevent flaking. The scrub will leave your lips feeling refreshed and you can wear the plumper on its own, or layer with lipstick! Try it with one of our most popular lip products:

Jane Iredale PureMoist LipColours With SPF 18 (3.4g)
Glo Minerals Perfect Lip Duo (Available in 3 colours)

Dear Spa Girl: When I put on foundation, my skin starts to itch within the first 3 hours and I end up washing it all off by lunch! Is there a better product I should be using?

It really sounds like you may be using chemical heavy or expired product. If it’s a severe itch, you should get a proper consultation from a local esthetician. Your skin may have become sensitized to one of the chemicals in the foundation.  First, discontinue use immediately. Then, try introducing a product with some healing qualities, such as the Institut’ DERMed Licorice Serum (15ml) or Eminence Aloe Mint Hydrating Cream Gel – Face (2.0oz).

Also, try moving to a light foundation or tinted moisturizer and gradually introducing powders. The fewer products you have on, the easier it will be to sort out which is causing the irritation.

Here are a couple of Foundations that we really love:

Jane Iredale Dream Tint SPF 15
Eminence Antioxidant Mineral Foundation (0.28 oz)
Skeyndor Aquatherm Tinted Defence Cream SPF 15 

Do you have a Beauty Question for our Spa Girls? We want to help! Send an email to info@spaboutique.ca . Our estheticians are here to help.

 

As always, just for being a follower of our blog, enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!

The Benefits of Alpha Hydroxy Acids

AHA’s are probably one of the most versatile and multi-purpose ingredients when it comes to skin care. They can be useful to both oily/acneic skin types and the “mature” skin group. This is a rare combination!

AHA’s increase exfoliation by loosening the “glue” that holds skin cells together. In doing so dead skin cells are removed,  oil is controlled, the look of fine lines is reduced, skin coloring is improved and the tone is evened out. All glowy and smooth.

Sounds win/win to me. So why are some more effective or popular than others? Are there side effects? Why do they work?

Why the other AHA’s are jealous of Glycolic.

You know when you see a ridiculously beautiful person and wonder why they won the genetic lottery? Well, Glycolic Acid is the pretty, intelligent, talented sister of the AHA’s. It has a smaller molecular structure and goes further into the skin. Because it penetrates so well, the exfoliation is more complete.

Overview of the overlooked AHA’s.

Lactic: We’ve all heard the “Cleopatra bathing in milk” story. There is a reason. Lactic acid usually comes from soured dairy products and is gentler than Glycolic. With the larger molecules they don’t absorb as deep, therefore cause less irritation, it’s wonderful for more sensitive skins. Exfoliating, softening, moisturizing and humectant-y (holds water in the uppers layers of the epidermis=firm and plump!) lactic is definitely not to be ignored.

Malic: The sour acid. Found in unripe fruit, tart foods and especially apples, Malic is a gentle exfoliant that is smoothing. It does have anti-oxidant properties, but those are mostly from ingesting the foods it’s found in. Like sour keys. Kidding. There’s no research to indicate that it’s topically beneficial in slowing the aging process, but it does provide a little more exfoliation when included in products. It’s molecules are twice the size of glycolic acid so it doesn’t go anywhere as deep.

Tartaric: Oh Tartaric. You try, you really do. This is a by-product from the grapes used to make wines. It has very minimal benefits, but enough that during the middle ages wine was used as a skin treatment by hip, castle-dwelling ladies to get glowing skin.

Citric Acid: Completely deserving of its own post, we’ll touch on this quickly.  Vitamin C  can be extremely unstable in liquid or lotion products. When exposed to air or sunlight it oxidizes very quickly and actually causes free radical damage once that happens. Stabilized vitamin C is available but is very expensive so will come with a higher price tag accordingly. In those siuations it does wonders for stimulating collagen growth and brightening the skin beautifully. Vitamin C derivatives (Ascorbyl Plamitate and Magnesium Ascorbyl  Phosphate) are more stable and less irritating but may may not be AS effective. More research is needed!

Either way, beware cheap products that claim Vitamin C as an ingredient, they won’t work because as an effective ingredient it is pricey, no getting around that. Packaging usually needs to be opaque and in an airtight pump.

Are they safe?

What makes this interesting is that because of how deep Glycolic Acid can go it almost takes AHA’s into the realm of being categorized as a drug. Almost. The Cosmetic Ingredients Review Report last looked into them in 1998 and the FDA should hopefully be doing a review again soon. As a result the percentages and pH are strictly implemented to protect the consumer.

• For home use 10% or below and a pH of 3.5 or higher
• Cosmetologists can use 20-30% with a pH of no less than 3
• Dermatologists and doctors can use  50-70%, but this results in severe peeling and redness, some oozing…usually with a recovery time of a week or two.

What terrifies me while writing this is the amount of high percentage glycolics available on online auction sites for anyone with absolutely no training. Shudder.

So use only the suggested percentages for home use! When that’s done, you get all the beautiful  advantages of AHA’s and no face melting.

AHA’s are water soluble and less irritating to the skin than benzoyl peroxide, which makes them great for acneic skin. If you can find an AHA product that has salicylic in it, even better! Because it’s fat-soluble, it can dissolve the oil that clogs pores, lifting out the bacteria and exfoliating away the clumped skin cells.

There can still be side effects of redness, tingling and some itching though. A small amount is ok, but if it becomes unbearable, just rinse away with water.

Tips for types of AHA products.

• It can cause photo sensitivity, try and use the fewest amount of AHA products in your regime as possible and always wear sunscreen. Always. Go put some on right now.
• AHA cleansers don’t really make a lot of sense unless you spend at least two minutes washing your face. The AHA needs to be absorbed and that takes time. Applying and then rinsing does keep your sink drain exfoliated and young looking though.

Conclusion

AHA’s are wonderful. There is one out there for everyone if it’s used properly and instructions are followed. They really do improve the look of skin, people just need to be  careful! Thank you to @ahalchemist for some great info on AHA’s. Because information hasn’t been updated in a decade it can be difficult to find relevant studies.

 

We would love to hear your thoughts on the topic of this blog!  Feel free to post your comments or questions below.  As always, just for being a follower of our blog, enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!

Glycolic Products: Exfoliating for clearer, brighter skin.

As an esthetician, I’ve seen first hand the glorious radiance that results from glycolic acid use. I’ve done my best to compile all the relevant information in one place for you, so that you don’t have to go searching everywhere to get your answer.

This month at Spa Boutique, we’re highlighting products containing glycolic acids. But we just wanted to make sure everyone is clear on what and who they are for! Let’s begin shall we?

What.

Glycolic Acid is an naturally occurring fruit acid that is found in fruits, beets and sugar cane. It’s one of five Alpha Hydroxy Acids (lactic, malic, citric and tartaric…more on  those next week) that are used through out skincare for various purposes.

Glycolic itself is used to encourage the shedding of old, sun damaged, dull, built up surface skin cells to reveal  new, healthy skin. In other words, it exfoliates. Really, really well.

Higher percentages are used professionally by physicians, dermatologists and some spas  to do Chemical Peels; lower percentages are completely safe to use at home on a regular basis.

How.

This is just neat. When applied to the skin it penetrates, dissolving  the “glue” that holds the dead skin cells together and on the skin. No longer attached, they start to peel off. This is not as horrific as it sounds. Once those are  gone, you’re left with all that new, baby-fresh skin. Beautiful.

Because of this they can cause sun-sensitivities, so wear sunscreen.

Who.

They great thing about glycolics is that in varying degrees and formulations they’re beneficial for almost everyone. Standard contraindications apply though, as with most slightly-more-aggressive-skincare:

• Accutane users. Wait at least a year after your finished your round of this medication before you attempt glycolic use. Burning and scarring has been know to happen.
• Herpes, cold sores, severe acne or any other reason for having open lesions on the skin. Wait until everything is completely healed before branching into glycolic use.
• Undergoing cancer treatment.
• Extremely sensitive skin or rosacea. Look for specific formulations for these skin types. If it’s too much for your skin, you’ll know. Stop using it.
• Extreme, thick scarring.
• Bleeding disorders
• **Pregnancy** This is something that comes up quite frequently and has no definitive answer. There are no studies proving or dis-proving the safety of glycolic use during pregnancy. More than likely it’s fine, but always consult your doctor first. During the first 3-6 months of a pregnancy skin can be more reactive as well, so do be cautious and use the gentlest skincare possible.

Why are they so awesome?

• It will help to reduce the look of the first signs of aging, fine lines, brown spots and help clear up the appearance of acne.
• It exfoliates, leaving skin radiant and smooth
• It may increase circulation, improving collagen and elastin production over time, this has not been fully proven yet though
• It allows other products to penetrate easier, meaning that obscenely expensive serum you purchased will do a better job.
• Glycolics are also moisturizing as well, but a regular use of a moisturizer is always recommended

How does it benefit specific skin types?

All product usage ultimately comes down to personal taste and experience, but it’s always good to make sure you have realistic expectations and are using the product properly to see results. Regardless of skin type or condition some pinkness or tingling may occur but it should never be unbearable. Always finish with a moisturizer and SPF.

• Normal Skin: 2-3 times a week will help to refine texture, exfoliate away build up and may fade small scars.
• Dry skin: Following the directions of your specific product, it will help to moisturize and increase the effectiveness of serums and moisturizers applied afterward. You may experience some flaky patches for a bit, but stick to it!
• Oily/acneic skin: More consistent use, daily or twice daily, glycolics will help to control oil. That in combination with the exfoliating properties will help to clear and even out the skin. At the beginning there may be a flare up of blackheads and pimples, but this is common and should calm down after awhile. Also look for brands that combine salicylic acid with the glycolic for effective results.
• Mature Skin: Consistent use will again help to diminish the look of fine lines and make all other anti-aging products more effective. Glycolic products can be used in combination with Retin-A, but should be used alternately. This is an aggressive and effective way to improve texture but can cause irritation and redness. Talk to your dermatologist or esthetician before under going this course, and pay attention to how your skin reacts.
• Sensitive: Use glycolics with caution, do a spot test on your inner wrist to see how it goes. If there is no reaction then by all means go ahead! Gradually work up to more regular use.

Interesting and important facts that did not fit under the other headings.

You absolutely must use a full skincare regimen with glycolics. They do not protect the skin in any way and can leave it slightly more vulnerable. Hydrate and apply sunscreen, ideally as a mineral makeup. Those tend to be gentler on the skin and more effective sunblocks. I cannot stress this enough.

You don’t necessarily have to use glycolic products year round. Some professionals say yes, some no. Talk to your skincare solution provider to see what they recommend for you. You can always use them in cycles. 3 months on, 3 months off.

The percentages for home use should be around 10%, but new findings are saying the % doesn’t matter as much as the pH. I could not find a reliable source of information to provide an answer to that though. Many professional lines will not even display the % and some do (B. Kamins). You’ll know if it’s working if you get a slight tingling.

If you suffer from those little bumpies on the backs of your arms, Keratosis Pilaris, a glycolic product can be great to solve that.

In Conclusion:

Glycolics provide a simple and extremely effective way to a beautiful complexion. They’ve come a long way and are more effective and easier to tolerate than ever before. If you haven’t tried them before, Spa Boutique carries several excellent glycolic acid-based lines like Jan Marini Bioglycolic and B.Kamins.

 

We would love to hear your thoughts on the topic of this blog!  Feel free to post your comments or questions below.  As always, just for being a follower of our blog, enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!

Skeyndor: A classic skin care line that is apparently charming as well

There are a lot of skin care lines available. Maybe too many. It can make it difficult to find quality ones amidst the avalanche of promised miracles, para-medical, organic, and cheap drug store products; why exactly do they have to introduce a new product every two weeks if the previous ones were breakthroughs as well?

We’ve found here at Spa Boutique that a line that mysteriously tends to go unnoticed is Skeyndor. Well, we’ll have that no longer! Skeyndor comes from Spain and for the last 40 years has worked hard to become a product that focuses on results and innovation. They have an absolutely unbelievable range of products, but it’s still easy to find ones for individual concerns.

They do a couple of things particularly well. For one, they’ve gotten Skeyndor Man almost perfect. It’s simple, smells great, and works. Exactly how I like my men. There are a lot of positive, manly responses when it comes to this line.

The Vitamin C line is absolutely gorgeous. It will help to stimulate collagen production and provide clarity and radiance. Who doesn’t love that? Plus it has a scrumptious orange scent.

New to the line is the Aquatherm Collection. It focuses on sensitive skin, using natural spring water to help protect against environmental factors and calm irritations. The Aquatherm Thermal Concentrate Water is fantastic. It’s a revitalizing and hydrating spray that both Deigh-Anna and I use during the mid-afternoon slump. The cool blast is so refreshing. Our skin is all dewy after! Plus the Wake-Up factor is a bonus.

As I write this I realize I could keep going on and on about this line. They provide professionals with wonderful technical books and really take pride in their line, referring to their philosophy as “elegant” and “charming”. This made me smile. For professional skin care the price is excellent, and you get a lot of variety to play around with.

 

We would love to hear your thoughts on the topic of this blog!  Feel free to post your comments or questions below.  As always, just for being a follower of our blog, enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!

 

 

Eye Creams, Wrinkles, Puffiness and Dark Circles

Take care of the eye area. The skin in the eye area is virtually twice as thin as that of the rest of the face.

Because the skin here is so fine, the eye area is extra fragile. With few sebaceous glands, it is often poorly hydrated, and dehydration makes the skin more vulnerable to fine lines. The first signs of ageing appear in the delicate skin around the eyes. It loses its elasticity, slackens, and becomes dry and lined.

In addition to the natural skin-ageing process, this area is also affected by daily attacks from UV rays and free radicals, the repeated movements of muscles around the eyes, and damage caused by the sun or time spent in front of the computer.

Wrinkles linked to the action of facial muscles are “action wrinkles” (such as forehead wrinkles, for example). Other wrinkles are related to lifestyle habits, such as sun exposure and smoking (e.g. lines around the mouth).

Blood and lymphatic vessels are finer and fewer in number in the eye area. When they are concentrated together near the surface of the skin, they can form dark areas with bluish reflections, or “dark circles”.

The fineness of the skin around the eyes makes it more permeable. It therefore needs targeted skincare products.

Removing eye make-up

• use a non-irritating make-up remover specially for the eyes
• opt for a make-up remover that isn’t too greasy
• if your eyes sting or if you find eyelashes stuck to your cleansing pads, change technique and/or product
• rinse with warm water

The pH of eye make-up removers is usually similar to that of tears.

What not to do:

• remove make-up from your eyes with soap or a cleansing cream.

To avoid the risk of irritation, follow this simple tip:

• Moisten your cotton pad with warm water so that the make-up remover is better dissolved.

Here’s a few recommended products:

• Skeyndors Aquatherm Eye Makeup Remover for Senstive Skin
• Phytomer Micellar Water Eye Makeup Removal Solution

Combating the most common problems – puffiness, wrinkles and dark circles

• Eye contour gels usually contain active ingredients with a draining action. If your eyes tend to be puffy in the morning or at the end of the day, eye gels will help rid the skin of waste that has not been properly eliminated during the night and reduce the severity of puffiness.
• Puffiness is often hereditary and due to lymph stagnation and poor blood circulation. However, if your eyes always look tired, the problem is caused by fat. An effective cosmetic product will not be sufficient in this case.

Tip: before applying gel, spray spring water onto your skin to revive it. Applying warm compresses to the eyelids will have an initial decongesting effect.

• Richer lotions (or creams) help reduce wrinkles and fine lines.
• Products should be gently applied with light patting movements; in this way, circulation is slightly stimulated.
• Above all, do not pull on the skin or tighten it with the fingers.
• The application technique should be a “draining” technique. Always begin at the top of the nose, then work along the arch of the eyebrows, come back along the lower eyelid and up to the corner of the eye near the nose. By repeating this movement, you relieve tensions in the face and tiredness in the eyes, and help reduce puffiness, dark circles and fine lines.

Here’s a few recommended products:

• Eminence Cucumber Eye Gel
• Skeyndor Natural Defence: Global Care Eye Cream
• Phytomer Regard Merveilleux: Puffiness Decreasing Eye Gel

For dark circles, special concealing products will hide the dark skin below your eyes and/or any small dilated vessels. Eat vitamin-rich food and boost circulation by using small patting movements.

There are several factors behind dark circles: poor blood circulation, the use of certain medicines, illness, etc.

Dark circles that are temporary appear at the end of the day. Blood pigments no longer flow within the blood and build up in the connective tissue, giving the skin a blue-tinted color. Dark circles can also be hereditary. In this case, they are permanent and the result of skin hyperpigmentation.

If you don’t know how to massage your eye area effectively, go to a Phytomer beauty salon/spa. While you may never master the technique quite as well as your beautician, at least by watching her you can learn how to relieve your eyes.

Tips for decongesting swollen eyelids:

• Infuse a tea bag and pour the tea into an ice cube tray that makes oval cubes. Once frozen, wrap a small gauze around 2 of the frozen tea cubes and gently rub them around the eye contour. Tea has draining properties and cold temperatures help decongest skin tissue.

Tips for effectively concealing dark under eye circles :

• If you have permanent dark under eye circles, then that means that they are genetic!There is only one solution for diminishing them: use an under eye concealer, in a shade that is close to your complexion.
• If your dark under eye circles are temporary, use Eye Contour Cream (see recommendations above) with draining and decongestioning properties. Apply a very small amount of product under the eyes, from the nose to the cheekbones. Gently pat into skin. For greater freshness and decongestioning action, place the Eye Contour Cream (see recommendations above) in the refrigerator for a few minutes.
• Use a mineral based concealer to cover dark circles. A product like Jane Iredale Circle Delete Under Eye Concealer. It is a natural maekup and contains Vitamin K to strengthen the capillaries.

We would love to hear your thoughts on the topic of this blog.  As special offer just for being a follower of our blog enter coupon code BLOG10 for 10% off your next purchase! Also, remember to follow us @spaboutique on Twitter, like our Facebook  page, and check out our boards on Pinterest! You could be the lucky winner of one of our many contests!