Posts Tagged ‘skin care’

How To Determine Your Skin Type

It has come to my attention that most people don’t know how to properly assess their own skin type and conditions. If this crucial step isn’t done properly, then it’s very likely the wrong skin care products are being used.

There are 4 or 5 skin types, depending on who you talk to, and several skin conditions. Skin type is yours for life while the conditions can come and go.

Skin Type

This is the skin you are born with, and it mostly has to do with how much oil you produce. It will change slightly over your lifetime since we produce less oil as we age. Proper products will help you balance the skin, getting that water/oil combination just perfect.

You want to do this with a clean face, no products interfering. So wash everything off, wait 30-60 minutes and assess. All you’re really looking at is how your skin produces oil. Then we move on to conditions.

Dry Skin

This is skin lacking oil. Small pores, flaking skin and tightness are the common indicators. This skin type is fragile. You need a barrier of water and oil to protect the skin, but since the skin is deficient in oil, it’s more prone to sensitivity.

Normal Skin

Nothing much to say here, there’s a great oil/water balance. Skin has no really issues at all, maybe the occasional breakout or dry spot due to hormones or weather. A big mistake that happens with this skin type is the obsession with any change. One pimple means that they’ve “broken out”. One fine line means that they need aggressive anti-aging products over the entire face. Perspective is a bit lost. This skin type simply thrives on gentle exfoliation and regular hydration.

Combination

Slightly off from normal, this is usually larger pores on the nose area and more oil in the T-zone, but dry and tight on the cheeks. This can be a frustrating skin type to work with, very hard to balance. It usually takes a lot of trial and error. It’s usually best to go with creamy type cleanser and finish with an oil free moisturizer.

Oily Skin

This is usually the easiest to identify. Large pores, lots of oil, lots of shine. Oily does not mean acne, but they often go together as excess oil leads to build up in the pores. This type of skin is often thicker and requires more cleansing and exfoliating, but there’s a fine balance. You don’t want to over cleanse, which can cause irritation and redness. Using a water based hydrator will help to balance as well.

Sensitive

This is the iffy one. Some people say it’s a type and some say a condition. As I mentioned above, your skin type is with you for life, but skin conditions can be changed. A sensitive skin type knows it. These people are frightened of products. They’ve had uncomfortable reactions to most things; sometimes even mysteriously break out in a rash. Sensitized skin I’ve put in with the conditions post. I’ve written an entire post about this complex issue. You can see it here.

Next come the conditions. Any of which can be applied to any one of the skin types.

This is where skin care gets a bit complicated: an oily skin can be dehydrated, mature skin can have acne.

It’s juat a matter of narrowing it down.

Have you had problems identifying your skin type?

The Complete Skin Care Routine

I’ve recently written a series of posts about the various skin care products that can be used in a routine.

Having been an esthetician, I very quickly learned that you never assume anything when it comes to how people will use things at home.

Stories about women drinking facial serums as opposed to applying them to the skin come to mind.

So here you go! The order in which your skin care routine should happen. Please keep in  mind to ALWAYS follow the instructions on the actual product and please, please, please ask your esthetician if you aren’t exactly sure how to use something.  Certain lines may have you use things in a different order, or have additional kinds of products available. This is an overview of the basics with links to articles that will expand on the product.

***Sunscreen. Always. Every day. Sun damage is responsible for up to 90% of aging in the skin, and it takes years for it to show up. This is the greatest thing you can do for your skin next to getting a lot of sleep.***

Step 1: Cleanse. You can’t effectively do anything else to the skin if it’s covered in a layer of oil, sweat, makeup, dirt and leftovers from the air outside. Don’t be scared to do it twice either if you’re particularly oily of have a lot of makeup on.

Step 2: Tone. This step isn’t always necessary, but does have added benefits. They can have a variety of purposes depending on the formula, but most notable they really ensure the face is completely clean.

Step 3: Exfoliate. This is a flexible step. It can be done gently every day, or slightly more aggressively a few times a week. Either way, everyone can benefit from exfoliating. It brightens skin, evens texture and tone, reduces lines and helps control breakouts. Why would you skip it?

Step 4. Mask. This is done once a week. It is also the most frequently not done at all. Like toning, it’s not critical to a skin care routine. But the will be definite, added benefits to using one. They have a high concentration of ingredients and are the most effective way to see immediate (if temporary) results. Fantastic for special occasions.

Step 5. Serums. These come in many forms. Usually as a treatment, they don’t necessarily need to be used year round. Applied under your moisturizer they can provide a boost to your current routine when you find skin just needs a little oomph in a certain direction.

Step 6. Eye Cream. If you are at all concerned with puffiness, dark circles or those pesky little lines starting at the corners of your eyes, this is an important step. Most skin care professionals are of the opinion that eye cream use should start in the mid 20′s at the latest. Eyes are where we see aging first, and those signs are difficult to reverse.

Step 7. Moisturizers. The last step before makeup application. Most often people choose the wrong one for their skin type. It’s important to have a firm grasp on your actual skin type and use the appropriate one. 1 or 2 pimples does not mean you need an anti-acne one, just because you fear aging while in your 20′s does not mean you should find the most intense anti-aging cream you can get your little mitts on. It will not work and you will not be happy.

If you are in a position where you can only invest in the minimal products I would suggest the following in order of importance:

1. Moisturizer. This is the one that sits and stays on your skin. Go for the best quality you can, which does not mean the most expensive. Learn what works with your skin.

2. Cleanser. While you do rinse this off, using the wrong one can affect the rest of your skin care. Go gentle and soap free.

3. Exfoliant. Find a gentle one (no crushed nuts, pits or shells). I’ve always found cheaper, poorly formulated ones sensitized and irritate the skin like crazy. A good one will give you beautifully smooth, bright skin almost immediately.

That’s a stripped down, bare bones routine.

What’s your routine? What products do you scrimp on and what can you not live without?

Do You Really Need to Use a Toner?

Toners are confusing. There are a bunch of different versions, some lines have them, some don’t. Alcohol is bad for the skin, so why is a toner okay?

In this post we’ll take a look at how and why toners are included in skincare routines.

What is a toner?
Liquids that are applied to the skin after cleansing and before moisturizing.

What do they do?
Depending on the ingredients of a specific formual, they can rebalance the pH, hydrate, finish the cleansing process or absorb oil.

How do you use one?
Again, this depends on the formula.
Ones that are meant to freshen, balance and hydrate are usually sprayed onto the skin. Others that are designed as Step 2 of the cleansing process are orften wiped over the face with a cotton pad to ensure no cleanser or debris is left on the skin.

Which kind should you use?

Always read the instructions of the particular product you are using as some lines have specific ingredients that need to be used in certain ways, but here is an overview of the basic kinds:

• Fresheners: Mostly sprays. Best for dry, mature or sensitive skin these are used before a serum or moisturizer and can be used throughout the day to rehydrate and brighten the skin. Often little to no alcohol is used. Sophisticated formulas will actually improve absorption of any products put on after application
• Toners: These will often contain a slight percentage of alcohol or similar ingredient. Designed for more normal to combination skin types. They remove left over cleanser and debris from the skin ensuring it’s clean, tight and ready to receive the next products.
• Astringents: This is the tingling clean those with oily and acne prone skin crave. Higher amounts of alcohol or witch hazel remove excess oil. These should be used sparingly as they can be quite drying.

In professional use we’re instructed to use a toner after everytime water is applied to the skin. Sometimes tap water has deposits of minerals or metals. A toner wiped over the skin will help to remove any of those.

As for re-establishing the pH, the skin is designed to do that on it’s own. That’s getting into some pretty complicated skin care if the pH of water on the skin will immediate neutralize any active ingredients in further products used. I’ve never really been given an acceptable explanation of why that is so necessary. I feel they should be highlighting other advantages.

While toners can definitely improve any skin care routine, make sure to really understand the particular toner you are using. If it’s just a light spray  of alcohol, I would say it’s time to upgrade to something a touch more sophisticated that gives more benefits.

As listed above you can find ones that hydrate, exfoliate, plump and freshen the skin, really a benfit is available for most skin car conditions. I myself enjoy the routine and have always found that a swipe of toner does actually pick up any leftovers on the skin. You can always be sure that skin is completely clean.

What have been your experiences with toner?

Exfoliants: Choosing the Right One for Your Skin

Why should you exfoliate?

Skin has multiple layers that push cells up towards the surface. They dull and dry out near the top and some naturally slough off.  The ones that don’t dull the look of your skin, can look flaky or cause texture. Exfoliating buffs them away, revealing younger, smoother skin. This can also reduce breakouts and fine lines.

When should you exfoliate?

Exfoliating should happen after cleansing. Sometimes with it if you have a daily cleanser/exfoliant. As to whether you should do it morning or night, that comes down what fits in your routine better. I would suggest that AHA’s be used at night though due to the increased sun sensitivity.

What kind should you use?

• Mechanical: anything that involves physical abrasiveness. Scrubby beads!
• Enzymatic: these break down the hardened protein (keratin) of the tough upper layers
• AHA: e acids that dissolve the intercellular cement between cells, lifting off the layers of older skin.

Mechanical

Avoid mechanical exfoliants that use crushed pits or shells. They can scrape, cut and damage skin. Sugar and salt are also too abrasive for the face.

Look for jojoba, rice or bamboo and more specifically the word “spherical”.

Gentle, spherical exfoliants are great for all skin types. Make sure to read the instructions of that particular product to make sure it’s appropriate for your skin type.

A common mistake with these is the desire to scrub too hard. Let the product do the work. Gently massage the product into the skin, focusing on areas that are thicker. Pressing harder will only irritate the skin.

Enzymatic:

These are by far more consistent , but people often feel they need to scrub to get the benefit. If you can move past that need there are so many more benefits.

These types of exfoliants get to a deeper layer without causing the damage or irritation. While they do feel active, they are often easier on sensitive skin depending on the formula, as there is no physical abrasion.

Papain (from papaya) and bromelain (from pineapples) are two enzymes to look for.

AHA

With  AHA you get tingling. These are the bonds that hold the dead cells together dissolving. Over time as the skin is consistently exfoliated, it won’t be as intense.

There is research that shows AHA’s can encourage collagen production in the skin. Glycolics have the smallest molecule and get down nice and deep, loosening up all those dull, clinging skin cells. Skin is brighter, clearer and smoother with very minimal effort. They visibly reduce fine lines and can help lessen hyper-pigmentation.

You can read more about AHA’s here.

Which type should you use?

Do not use exfoliants meant for the body on your face. They are not formulated to be gentle enough and can cause damage. Same goes for loofahs, scrub gloves or pumice.

Here are some suggestions, but ultimately it’s up to you to decide which ones you enjoy using and see the best results with.

Sensitive Skin:

• Mechanical: Gentle, spherical beads in a cream or milk base. Once a week and focusing on the areas that need it the most. This usually means avoiding the cheek area. As you build a tolerance you can do it more frequently.
• Enzymatic/AHA: Look for formulas designed for sensitive skin and that rinse off. Leave them on the skin for 1-3 minutes and gently rinse with tepid water. As your skin gets used to it you can leave them on longer and use them more frequently.

Normal/Combination:

• Lucky thing. You can use whatever you fancy.  Cycle in a glycolic for a month or two 2-3 times a year for beautiful, glowing skin. It’ll keep skin younger looking for longer. 2-3 times a week should be enough.

Oily

• Usually slightly more frequently is required, but do not overdo it. Aggressive exfoliation will cause the skin to over produce oil in compensation.
• Ideally go with a combination of AHA and BHA (salicylic acid). This will remove dead skin cells and dissolve that oil that can get stuck in the pores

Dry skin

• Again, you can use whichever you find appeals to you most. It goes without saying that effective moisturizing is very important. 2-3 times a week..

Mature Skin

• AHA and glycolic would be best. Be careful if you’re using Vitamin A or Retin A products. Both are aggressive and it’s best to talk to your doctor. 2- 3 times a week.

Acneic

• So tough. If you go with a mechanical it needs to be very gentle. Depending on the severity it sometimes needs to be treated as sensitive skin. Those that are oily often can’t get over the mental block of needing to scrub their face raw to feel clean.
• AHA’s and BHA. Deeply, gently exfoliating and oil dissolving. Make sure it’s a gentle formula though. Go for something that sits for a minute or two and requires rinsing or neutralizing. Acneic skin is often easily irritated.

What’s the best exfoliant you’ve ever used?

How and Why Serums Should be Used in Skincare

We did a little survey last week, and the results were pretty interesting: 36% of the responders were not aware of what the purpose of a serum is, and only 40% of responders actually use one.

Keep in mind that this is based on a sampling of Spa Boutique’s customers that on average are women ranging from 30-55.

It makes sense that some people don’t know about serums. TV, magazines and drugstore brands don’t really advertise them, and that’s where most people get their skin care knowledge and advice from.

So what exactly do serums do and why should you use one?

What is a serum?

• Serums are light,  fluid emulsions that have high concentrations of active ingredients
• Those active ingredients are usually smaller in molecular size and absorb more rapidly and deeper into the skin
• Where a moisturizer should be tailored to your skin type (normal, dry, oil, combo, sensitive) the serum can focus on the skin condition (dehydration, redness, aging, sensitized, dullness, hyper pigmentation) giving you flexibility and adaptability in your skincare routine
• They boost your current skin care routine and allow you to focus in on a specific issue and resolve it

How do you use a serum?

• A small amount is put on clean skin, before you apply your moisturizer
• They can be used under masks for deep penetrating results and will  boost the mask if they are compatible
• Usually they are designed as a treatment. If you’re dehydrated but still combo to oily: keep the rest of your routine the same, but throw in one bottle of Phytomer Hydracontinue Hydra-nourishing Serum. Use up the whole bottle, it should take about a month, and the dehydration should no longer be a problem.
• While boosting ones can be used every so often, there are ones that can be great to use year round. A common result people are looking for is “brightening the skin“. This can be achieved by consistently using a serum that lightly exfoliates and increases cell turnover. A great one is B Kamins Cellular Renewal Serum.  This is something that can be used all year long and generally improves the texture and tone of the skin.

As with any other skin care product, the absolute best results will be seen with consistent use. Everyday.

Most professional lines will carry a serum for pretty much everything. If you are looking for targeted results, then it’s definitely a product you should consider adding in once and awhile. Make sure that it will be compatible with your moisturizer as both will be sitting on your skin and you want them to work together.

Have you found a serum that you love? Have you ever been disappointed by one?  Share your story in the comment section.

Visit www.spaboutique.ca to see complete lines of some of the best skin care, hair care and make up products available.